01/10/06
– 05/10/06
As darkness fell Celtic Spirit set off from Fernando de Noronha for Salvador
into 25 knots of wind from the SE. We were to be beating on a port tack in
these established trade winds for the next three days when a course change
for Salvador would see us on a down wind run for the following two days until
we would reach Salvador. Our first three days saw us make excellent progress
sailing at 9kns at times. The weather was good and with the benefit of a full
moon night watches were a pleasure.
Around 0600 on the morning of the 5th of October we rounded the headland into Baia de Todos os Santos and toward Salvador. We dropped anchor and launched the dingy and the skipper and first mate went to see the lie of the land ashore. They returned having visited the harbour masters office and organised our berth as well as checking the depths as we were now at low water and Celtic Spirit’s draft would just about clear the bottom.
The Brazilian authorities demand you clear in with four different authorities: Immigration, Customs, Health and Port Captain in this order. All the crew were required to attend the Policia Federal for immigration where we had to sit and wait until all our details were recorded on computer and paper and our visas issued. Customs had to wait until after lunch as they are closed during this hour. At the health department offices it took some persuading for us not to be given injections as the doctor was convinced that coming from the Cape Verde Islands required Yellow Fever vaccines. This was untrue and having consulted his books we were granted that all important piece of paper with the official stamp of clearance. Then it was back to the harbour masters office (Capitania dos Portos) to prove that we had visited all the authorities and had the necessary paperwork. This process of visiting all these offices took a full day!
Salvador was the capital of Brazil until 1763. At one time it was the second most important city in the Portuguese Empire. It was a major slave trading centre and today this is reflected in its African culture. This is black Brazil and its influence can be seen in the music, the food, and the culture. The old city is very run down and is similar to Havana Cuba. Many of the street people have gone and the ‘fevelas’ shanty settlements have been removed around the harbour area. There is a strong presence of police on the streets to protect tourists but caution is still very much required. We were told by a taxi driver that after 10pm until 7pm cars can run through RED lights. Apparently it is more dangerous to stop at night time! However all this caution has in no way affected our enjoyment of this stop over. Next stop Rio de Janerio some 900 miles further south.
Log 28/09/06 – 02/10/06
