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26/10/06 – 09/11/06
Clearing formalities into Rio was similar to that of Salvador and took almost a full day once again. With our invite to stay at the Iate Clube Rio de Janerio, Celtic Spirit spent her two weeks in Rio at anchor in Botafogo Bay, looked over on one side by the Sugar Loaf and Jesus the Redeemer on the other side. The club is situated in Urca a quiet and leafy, mostly residential area. With the beaches of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon to the South and the city centre and its suburbs to the North we were well situated to get just about everywhere. A taxi rank is situated right outside the door of the club and there is excellent bus and metro services nearby. The driving in Rio had some of the crew hanging on with white knuckles as the cabs sped through the traffic disregarding safe driving distances and red lights! Red traffic lights in Rio are considered a safety suggestion at best.

The Iate Clube itself was fantastic. The crew were able to use the shower facilities, the barber, the restaurants, the swimming pool, the libraries internet connection (wireless), the bar (which served the best Caipiriniha’s), and the water taxis (Cocoraco) which would bring crew back at various hours of the night, sometimes dropping off crew after a night out while collecting other crew setting off for some sight seeing first thing in the morning! We were also able to get our sails repaired here with North Sails who did an excellent job.

While some crew returned to see family those left in Rio did their best to become locals. Samba lessons at the well known Carlinhos de Jesus school of Samba were the order of the day. Their teacher was Luiz Claudio who apart from being brilliant remained patient while all did their best to get their feet into the samba rhythm. On leaving Luiz was promised that ‘exercise, practise and more movement the hips’ would continue!

Everyday at least one Caipiriniha’s had to be consumed and soon the most essential items in the shopping bag became a bottle of Cachaca and limes. These are the key ingredients, the small limes being cut into quarters, sugar added and then the Cachaca. This is a high proof alcohol made from sugar cane and many bars and restaurants have whole menus devoted to the many brands that can be bought.

The crew explored Rio from Leblon and Ipanema to Santa Teresa and Centro by day and by night. They went to the beach, the cinema, museums, art galleries, markets, restaurants, pubs, clubs and made friends with the Cariocas. They went up the sugar loaf from where there was a good view of the boat and took two tours, one to a Favela (slum) and one to the Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer statue).

By far the highlight was meeting Paulo Amendoim who used to be president of the residents association of Rio’s largest Favela, Rochina and is involved in its childcare project. Rochina has more than 127000 inhabitants and is one of the most developed slums having obtained the status of district (bairro). Paulo is a wonderful man who is obviously loved and respected by all from young to old. He seemed to know everyone as we walked up through the favela which is built precariously all the way up the hillside. He brought us for some delicious Acai, made from the Amazon fruit of the same name. Once at the top we got motorbike cab rides back down to the bottom. This was a special experience to be among the gridlock of traffic snaking up the hillside, nipping in and out between the busses and cars. Rochina is a big and lively place. While the people who live there have very little they are happy a community spirit is evident.

Our tour of the Corcovado was led by Dolores Leao who collected us in a big metallic green jeep. From the Iate Club we drove up through the Tijuca forest, everyone feeling the chill as we got higher. Dolores was wonderful, filling us with information on the city as well as the statue. Our trip back took us through Santa Teresa, past Ronnie Biggs House and through Centro and to the new cathedral with its strange cone shape. Dolores is a bright and bubbly person who has started to make very good Cachaca in the tourist down time. We were given a bottle of it to sample.

Brazilians love their music and dancing. There are plenty of places to go for live Samba music and dancing including restaurants where you pay a cover charge for the music but it is well worth it. Our favourite spots were Severyna in Laranjeiras, Carioca da Gema in Lapa and a couple of places in Santa Teresa.

While a sailor we met in Salvador recommended us not go to Rio we have to say it was not to be missed. However we will be taking his advice and visiting Parati which is an 80m sail further along the coast where we hope to meet with the skipper of Parati 2 a famous expedition yacht in Brazil. Here two Brazilian crew will join us for the next leg of our journey south. We have heard it is very, very beautiful!

Log 19/10/06 - 25/10/06

Cape Verde to Salvador, Brazil
Canaries to Cape Verde
Portugal to Canaries